Ventures in tatting

23 05 2011

For a few weeks now, I’ve been thinking that I’d like to try my hand at tatting. I was in Duttons for Buttons on Saturday for some bits and pieces for a knitting project and saw that they sold tatting shuttles, so I bought one. Over the weekend, I spent a good couple of hours trying to figure out how on earth I’m supposed to use it!

I search for instructions, but found that they mostly seemed to work from the premise that it was something that one had seen it being done and a lot of them didn’t have pictures. Of course, it did not help that I’ve spent hours upgrading my laptop over the weekend, only to find that the drivers for the wireless adapter have become corrupted and I no longer have internet connectivity from it, so I was using my mobile phone on the wireless instead. While I love my phone very much, it’s not that great for trying to view pictures of something fiddly on a small screen while trying to do said fiddly thing with both hands! There was a lot of focus on the necessity to ‘flip the knot’ and it became apparent than one twisted one’s wrist in order to do so, but I couldn’t picture what that actually looked like.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, I finally figured out what it meant and how to do it, and am now able to make rings with double stitches and picots. I am not, however, able to make chains, because I don’t know how to wind the shuttle properly, and, while I’ve been able to make up something in order to be able to practice stitches, what I have been doing does not work for chains!

My investigative projects for today, then are how to fix my laptop and how I should have my ball, thread and shuttle if I want to make chains!

Once I’ve figured out what I’m supposed to be doing, I’ll post some pictures. In the mean time, if anyone knows of any (free) resources that might point my in the right direction, I would be very grateful!

Edit

I’ve found a few good videos on Youtube, which I’ll definitely be coming back to later (when I actually have the work in front of me!) and I thought I’d share them here too.

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Knitting update

12 05 2011

I’m finishing off a simple, blue and tan garter stitch scarf today. I’m not yet decided on what to start next. I’ve been toying with the idea of trying something from Beeton’s Book of Needlework by Mrs. Beeton but I’d also like to make something for a friend’s little boy, so I’ve been trawling through the free patterns on the Patons website. There are so many choices!

I really like the idea of giving the Beeton patterns a go, it’s just that I’d end up with an awful lot of d’oyleys and antimacassars! To be fair, there are quite a lot of other things in there, so perhaps I might give some of those a go. I like the look of the Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool and the Knitted Shawl. The patterns may be a little more complex than anything I’ve attempted previously, but they are quite descriptive. I’m not always sure exactly what kind of weight of wool she’s referring to, but I can probably make a guess and if it doesn’t work out, I’ll just have to unravel it!

I have reproduced the two patterns below.

Knitted Shawl

Materials Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles.

346

347

This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347. Both illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to be clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on a sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must not be too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic.

Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern No. 346, which is worked in the following manner:–

1st row: Slip the first stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward; repeat from *.

2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next row the holes are alternated–that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit 1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together.

When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and then [367] work the pattern seen on No. 347, which forms the ground, and is worked in the following way:–1st row: Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one.

2nd row, entirely purled.

When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows of the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6 stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No. 347); each first stripe is at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe at a distance of 20 stitches. After the 9th open-work row, work again 6 rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then begin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the narrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide inner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground (pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wide [368] and one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes in the ground pattern. Knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep.

Knitten Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool

Material: Black Shetland wool.

This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern (commencing at the corner).

1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

2nd row: Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be increased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures at the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the lower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted lace.

323

The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Cast on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:–Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.

2nd row: Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward.

3rd row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.

4th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13.

5th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.

6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.

7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4.

8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13.

9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.

10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.

11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.

12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.

13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.

14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.

[331]
15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3.

16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.

17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.

18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.

19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.

20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.

21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.

22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row.

23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 7.

24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchief is knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn through the knot.





Green Living

26 11 2010

I’ve just been reading through this post by Alexa Marsden about green living. There are some great ideas in there. I’m not a vegan myself, but there are some other bits I could pick up on that I don’t do already. Definitely worth a look.








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